Girraween National Park and Bald Rock Creek Camping Area, QLD.

Granite Arch

Girraween National Park is an outstanding national park and I have lost count of the number of times we have been there. Even if you aren't keen on camping, it is well worth dropping in for a day trip as there are excellent walks in the park. If you are short of time, the walk to Granite Arch is only a 1.6 km circuit. 

Bald Rock Creek Day Use Area

Bald Rock Creek Day Use Area is a well equipped picnic area, with a huge car park, that is an ideal base for exploring.

Girraween National Park Visitor Information Centre

The Girraween National Park Visitor Information Centre is next to the Day Use Area and is a good place to learn about the park. There is free WiFi available at the centre which can be used to check the weather and make camping bookings. There is also a phone booth in the Information Centre Car Park.

The Pyramid. View from near the Information Centre.

Another visit to Girraween National Park hadn't been on our itinerary but we decided to come here due to the wet weather. It seemed like a good idea to spend time in the rain at a place where we had already seen all the sights and we liked the idea of hot showers after wet walks. We knew we wouldn't be climbing The Pyramid this trip though as it is too dangerous in the wet. 

We have always camped at Castle Rock Camping Area so for a change we decided to camp at Bald Rock Camping Area. 

Our site at Bald Rock Creek Camping Area

We choose a site that had a tent pad made of compacted granite. As always, on this type of pad, it took a fair bit of effort to knock in the tent pegs. We were woken during the middle of the night by loud noises and debris hitting the side of our tent. We leapt up to investigate only to discover that an echidna was excavating a hole in the granite pad. It really is amazing how quickly such a small animal can make a hole in such a hard surface. The echidna immediately ran away and tried to hide its head, as they like to do when disturbed, but we did manage to get a photo of it before leaving it alone.

Echidna

While we were investigating the hole that the echidna made, a Brush-tailed Possum came over to us to investigate us. It seemed quite fascinated by the light from our torches.

Brush-tailed Possum

Satin Bowerbirds, Musk Lorikeets and Red Wattlebirds were frequent visitors to our campsite.

Satin Bowerbird

Musk Lorikeet

Details for Bald Rock Creek Camping Area:
Where: Girraween National Park. 39 km north of Tenterfield. 36 km south of Stanthorpe. Turn off the New England Highway onto Pyramids Road. Turn left into the campground after about 9 km. 
Access: Fully sealed roads suitable for all vehicles. (Entry from the north via Eukey is a nice option if you like unsealed back roads.)
Bookings and Fees: Online or by telephone. There is now free WiFi at the rangers office. Rangers do not take bookings. There is a telephone booth in the car park at the rangers station.
Sites: There are areas for tents and a section with 8 sites for camper trailers. (There are non-powered caravan sites at Castle Rock Camping Area). 
Facilities: The amenities block is wheelchair accessible, hot showers, flush toilets, tables, non-potable water taps, fire places (BYO wood). No bins. No powered sites. No phone reception. Outdoor telephone box in the car park at the rangers station.
Prohibitions: No pets. No generators. Do not collect firewood. Do not dump ashes in the campground (damp down and remove to transfer station).


Wildlife: Echidna, Eastern Grey Kangaroo, Red-necked Wallaby, Brushtail Possum, Red-bellied Black Snake, Jacky Lizard, Elf Skink, Copper-tailed Skink, Eastern Water Skink. Joseph Coat Moth. Common Brown Butterfly.
Bird List: Satin Bowerbird, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, Great Cormorant, Horsfield's Bronze Cuckoo, Pied Currawong, Torresian Crow, Darter, Superb Fairy-wren, Grey Fantail, Rufous Fantail, Red-browed Finch, Noisy Friarbird, White-throated Gerygone, White-necked Heron, Yellow-faced Honeyeater, White-eared Honeyeater, Yellow-tufted Honeyeater, New Holland Honeyeater, Scarlet Honeyeater, Laughing Kookaburra, Musk Lorikeet Scaly-breasted Lorikeet, Rainbow Lorikeet, Australian Magpie, Crested Pigeon, Eastern Yellow Robin, Crimson Rosella, Little Shrike-thrush, Grey Shrike-thrush, Eastern Spinebill, Brown Thornbill, Yellow-rumped Thornbill, White-throated Treecreeper, Red Wattlebird, Golden Whistler, Willie Wagtail.

Wildlife at Bald Rock National Park, NSW.

Family of Cunningham's Skinks

We were delighted to see a family of Cunningham's Skinks sunning themselves. These skinks vary a lot in their colouration and the ones on Bald Rock have a very colourful palette.

There were quite a few Common Brown butterflies about. We did mange to get a photo of a slightly different brown butterfly that I wasn't familiar with and I was able to get it identified as a Ringed Xenica by a member of The Butterfly and Other Invertebrates Club (BOIC).

Ringed Xenica  Geitoneura acantha

We often encounter wildlife around campgrounds that have become accustomed to people feeding them. Unfortunately, feeding wildlife can lead to undesirable behaviors developing in that wildlife. Aggression is just one of the reasons that national parks often display signs asking people not to feed wildlife. At Blackdown Tablelands National Park, QLD, we encountered unusually large numbers of thieving Pied Currawongs, at Mulligans Campground in the Gibraltar Range National Park, NSW, we even encountered a very aggressive Satin Bowerbird. At Bald Rock Campground there are problems with very pushy Kookaburras. A young man camping there had told us that Kookaburras were "getting in his face", we didn't realize how literal he was being until I was eating a sandwich and a Kookaburra flew right into my face and stole the sandwich while I was biting it. The beak of the Kookaburra, which believe me is very large at close range, actually hit my hand on the way through and left a red swelling and a blood blister on my thumb.

The culprit with the evidence.

Here are a few other bird photos that I liked:

Eastern Spinebill

Fan-tailed Cuckoo

Scarlet Honeyeater

Superb Fairy-wren

Wildlife: Red-necked Wallaby, Swamp Wallaby, Cunningham's Skink, Squirrel Glider.
Bird List: Satin Bowerbird, Red-tailed Black Cockatoo, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, Fan-tailed Cuckoo, Pied Currawong, Superb Fairy-wren, Grey Fantail, Noisy Friarbird, Tawny Frogmouth, Scarlet Honeyeater, Laughing Kookaburra, Musk Lorikeet, Rainbow Lorikeet, Australian Magpie, Eastern Yellow Robin, Eastern Rosella, Crimson Rosella, White-browed Scrubwren, Eastern Spinebill, Brown Thornbill, Striated Thornbill, Red-browed Treecreeper, White-throated Treecreeper.

Bald Rock National Park, NSW: Climbing Bald Rock and Camping at Bald Rock Campground.

Bald Rock

Bald Rock Walking Track:
There are two ways to get to the top of Bald Rock. Rockface Walk: Follow the white dots, straight up the granite face of Bald Rock. This is a popular option for those who are fit and aren't afraid of heights. Bungoona Walk: a longer option but comfortably achievable for most people. 

Granite Arch, Bungoona Walk.

A good option is to go up the rock face and come down via the Bungoona Walk; roughly 3.2 km total. This is what we planned to do but when we got going early in the morning there was heavy cloud and mist with light rain. We learnt many years ago not to walk on wet granite after a scary experience with slick granite on The Pyramid in Girraween National Park so we made the decision to go up and down the long way; about 5 km in total. The Bungoona Walk is worth doing anyway as it has many interesting granite rock formations and interesting flora.

Rock Lily Orchid Dendrobium speciosum

When we reached the summit the cloud looked like it might lift so we decided to have a snack and wait to see if the weather cleared up. Fortunately the weather did clear for a short while and we finally got some blue sky. (See photo at the top of this blog).

Bald Rock in the clouds.

Balancing Rocks, Bald Rock.

We decided to do the Rockface Walk in the afternoon. unfortunately, it looked like an afternoon storm was coming and as we arrived at the base we could hear thunder and lightning. We didn't like the idea of being exposed on the top of a granite dome in a thunder storm, so once again, we made the decision to call off walking the rock face. 

Afternoon thunderstorm coming over the Rockface Walk.

That evening, we checked the weather forecast and heavy rain was predicted over the coming days so we decided to relocate to Girraween National Park to wait out the wet weather. We plan on coming back to conquer the Rockface Walk sometime soon. Our blog on the wildlife we encountered at Bald Rock National Park can be found here.

Bald Rock Picnic Area:

Bald Rock Picnic Area

There is an excellent picnic area next to the campground. $8 per vehicle per day entry fee. Facilities include: tables, gas BBQ's, non-potable water taps, non-flush toilets, information, walk trail-heads, car park.

Details for Bald Rock Campground:

Bald Rock Campground. Self-registration

Site at Bald Rock Campground: table ,fire ring with plates, nearby water tap.

Where: Bald Rock National Park. 34 km north of Tenterfield. Turn off Mount Lindsey Road onto Bald Rock Access Road and follow signs to campground. ( Or 43 km south-east of Stanthorpe , road has unsealed sections.)
Access: Sealed roads if coming from Tenterfield. 2WD, all weather access.
Bookings and Fees: $12 per adult, $6 per child, plus $8 vehicle entry fee per day. No bookings. Self-register and pay on site.
Sites: 14 defined sites, crushed granite surface, designated for tents, camping beside vehicle, camper trailers, caravans.
Facilities: Non-flush toilets, tables in each site, fire rings with cooking plates, wood provided, several non-drinking water taps, information board, walks, camp kitchen shelter with gas BBQ hot plate and table. We had 1 - 2 bar Telstra phone reception. No bins. No showers.
Prohibitions: No pets, no smoking, no generators. 
Caution: Overly pushy Kookaburras steal food.

Wildlife: Red-necked Wallaby, Swamp Wallaby, Cunningham's Skink, Squirrel Glider.
Bird List: Satin Bowerbird, Red-tailed Black Cockatoo, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, Fan-tailed Cuckoo, Pied Currawong, Superb Fairy-wren, Grey Fantail, Noisy Friarbird, Tawny Frogmouth, Scarlet Honeyeater, Laughing Kookaburra, Musk Lorikeet, Rainbow Lorikeet, Australian Magpie, Eastern Yellow Robin, Eastern Rosella, Crimson Rosella, White-browed Scrubwren, Eastern Spinebill, Brown Thornbill, Striated Thornbill, Red-browed Treecreeper, White-throated Treecreeper.

Wollomombi Falls Section of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park, NSW.

Superb Lyrebird at Edgars Lookout

Edgars Lookout:
When we drove to Edgars Lookout in the Wollomombi section of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park we were excited to observe a Superb Lyrebird quietly foraging between the lookout and the picnic area.

View from Edgars Lookout, Wollomombi Falls.

Wollomombi Falls Picnic Area:
There is a large picnic area at Wollomombi Falls with tables, toilets, a large picnic shelter, information boards and a beautiful vista. The walks start from here.

Wollomombi Picnic Area

Wollomombi Walk: Grade 3, 4 km return.

View from Eagle Lookout, Wollomombi Walk.

Fan-tailed Cuckoo and Dusky Woodswallows, Wollomombi Walk.

Chandler Walking Track: Grade 5, 3 km return.
We only walked 150 m to the Wollomombi Falls Lookout (300 m return). The falls were barely a trickle but the gorge is still a magnificent sight.

Wollomombi Falls

Wollomombi Falls Campground:
This is a popular campground for quick overnight stays as it is only a short drive off the Waterfall Way and it takes all rig types. 

Wollomombi Falls Campground has clearly defined sites.

Details for Wollomombi Falls Campground:
Where: 42 km east of Armidale or 151 km south-west of Coffs Harbour.
Access: 2WD, all weather roads. Turn off the Waterfall Way onto Wollomombi Falls Road. Turn right into the signposted campground. 
Sites: 10 defined, compacted gravel sites, designated for tents and all rig types.
Fees and Bookings: $6 per adult, $3.50 per child, self-register, no bookings.
Facilities: Non-flush toilets, fire rings, firewood supplied, taps with non-potable water. Walks nearby.
Prohibitions: No pets. No smoking.

New England National Park, NSW: stunning lookouts and mystical forest walks.

We combined the Tea Tree Falls Walking Track with the northern section of the Lyrebird Track via Tree Fern Valley. Altogether, the walk was about 6 km and was listed as Moderate. However, we found the Tree Fern Valley section quite challenging.

Tea Tree Falls Walking Track

Tea Tree Falls

A feature of the walk is the different types of lichen and moss.

Tea Tree Falls Track

Rufous Fantail

Another part of the walk is through eucalypt forest with a coral fern under-story. We saw Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos in the gum trees.

Eucalypts and Coral Ferns.

Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo.

The walk goes past Toms Cabin which is available for hire; a bargain at $50 a night.

Tom's Cabin

Tree Fern Valley Track:

This track is listed as a way to shorten the Lyrebird Track but as we discovered it is very steep and there are many steps to negotiate. As this walk was listed as a Grade 3 and at 6 km was relatively short, we decided to carry our heavy camera equipment. In the end I had to pack my camera away and concentrate on clambering out of Tree Fern Valley unencumbered. Nevertheless, if you have the fitness to do this detour, it is an enchanting valley with a remote feel. 

It is worth noting here that Queensland walks are classified by Class and New South Wales walks are classified by Grade. It is our experience that walks in New South Wales tend to be slightly harder than walks in Queensland with the same number. We wouldn't hesitate to do a Class 4 walk in Queensland but we sometimes find a Grade 4 walk in New South Wales pushes our capabilities a bit.  

Tree Fern Valley

Crimson Rosella

After joining the Lyrebird Track we saw a Superb Lyrebird but it was too quick for a decent photo. We made our way to Banksia Point where there are magnificent views. Although we walked to Banksia Point from Thungutti Campground it is an easy drive along Point Lookout Road. National Parks NSW have two properties for hire at Banksia Point. The Residence is a large house that would accommodate several people. The Chalet is a small cottage which accommodates up to four people. The back veranda looks right out over the view. I priced the Chalet for two people and it was $105 a night. Definitely worth considering for a future visit.

View at Banksia Point

The next morning we drove up to Point Lookout. At the car park there are toilets and a beautiful stone shelter with tables and an internal fireplace. A walking group was just finishing up their breakfast there as we arrived.

Inside the stone shelter at Point Lookout.

It is only 200 m to the lookout via a track suitable for wheelchairs. This would have to be one of the most beautiful views we have ever seen. The forest covered mountains appeared to stretch on and on into the distance and the early morning mist made us feel like we were standing in the clouds.

Point Lookout

There are several other walks in New England National Park. We will definitely be back! 

Information about Thungutti Campground and the wildlife we saw in New England National Park is in my previous blog.

Thungutti Campground, New England National Park, NSW.

After setting up at Thungutti Campground, the first thing we noticed was that a number of Bassian Thrush were wondering around on the grass out in the open. Usually we see them along forest trails and the dim light makes it hard to get a clear photo. 

In the afternoon, a hare and a rabbit came out to graze. They are both introduced pests, although rabbits seem to pose more of a problem than hares.

Red-necked Wallabies are more welcome visitors.

There is a large kitchen shelter in the center of the park which has gas hot plates, tables and a water tap with non-potable water. Unusually, there is also a free-standing shower cubicle plumbed with cold water in the campground.

Camp Kitchen at Thungutti Campground

Enclosed shower at Thungutti Campground.

Bollarded sites at Thungutti Campground

To our delight, Flame Robins frequented the campground. 

One evening we were visited by a Frogmouth. It was making a sound we hadn't heard before but seems to be a regular Tawny Frogmouth. 

I'll write about the walks we did and the beautiful lookouts we saw in the next blog.

Details for Thungutti Campground:
Where: 81 km east of Armidale or 134 km south-east of Coffs Harbour. Turn off the Waterfall Way onto Point Lookout Road. The campground is about 15 km along Point Lookout Road.
Access: 2WD, all weather roads
Booking and Fees: $6 per adult, $3.50 per child. Self-register. No bookings.
Sites: Designated for tents and camping beside your vehicle. Shaded, grassy sites behind bollards. Listed as having 10 sites but there appear to be a lot more. 
Facilities: Large camp shelter with gas BBQ's and tables. Taps with non-potable water. One cold water shower in cubicle. Non-flush toilets.
Prohibitions: No pets, no smoking.
Note: Little Styx River RV Campground is a few kilometers before Thungutti, along Point Lookout Road. It is a free camp alongside the Styx River. Suitable for tents and all rig types such as caravans and camper trailers. There are trout in the river. 

Wildlife List: Swamp Wallaby, Eastern Grey Kangaroo, Red-necked Wallaby, Hare, Rabbit.
Bird List: Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, Pied Currawong, Superb Fairy-wren, Grey Fantail, Rufous Fantail, Tawny Frogmouth, Superb Lyrebird, Eastern Yellow Robin, Flame Robin, Crimson Rosella, Forest Raven, Large-billed Scrubwren, Brown Thornbill, Bassian Thrush, White-throated Treecreeper, Red-browed Treecreeper.