South West Rocks, NSW.

South West Rocks. Beautiful even under a leaden sky.

South West Rocks is an idyllic coastal town with a population of about five and a half thousand people. Situated just a ten minute drive from Trial Bay Gaol, Arakoon National Park and the Smoky Cape section of Hat Head National Park it has plenty to offer as a holiday destination. For scuba divers, the local Fish Rock Cave dive site is highly rated.

Horseshoe Bay Holiday Park, South West Rocks.

Horseshoe Bay Holiday Park has a stunning location adjacent to Point Briner and Horseshoe Bay. There is an elevated walk in front of the holiday park.

Elevated walkway, South West Rocks.

Looking from the holiday park, south over Horseshoe Bay towards Monument Hill.

Monument Hill is on the other side of Horseshoe Bay and is a great spot for a picnic. 

Monument Hill

On Monument Hill, I enjoyed sitting in a magnificent seat in the shape of a ships stern and looking south over Trial Bay to Trial Bay Gaol.

Trial Bay, with Trial Bay Gaol in the distance.

When people are not fishing on the rocky outcrop along the bay, Caspian Terns, Silver Gulls and Pied Oystercatchers pause to rest.

Rocks near the South West Rocks Surf Life Saving Club.

Smoky Cape Lighthouse and Smoky Cape Campground, Hat Head National Park, NSW.

Smoky Cape Lighthouse.

Smoky Cape Lighthouse
We visited the Smoky Cape section of Hat Head National Park during the winter. It is only a short walk to the lighthouse from the car park. NSW National Parks occasionally conduct WilderQuest tours of the lighthouse itself; as the dates vary it is best to check their website under Things to do.

South Smoky Beach

Looking south from the lighthouse we could clearly see the 4WD beach access from Smoky Cape Campground to South Smoky Beach.

Smoky Cape Lighthouse Keepers Cottages; accommodation.

Smoky Cape Lighthouse Keepers' Cottages offer bed and breakfast options and lighthouse tours. 

Captain Cooks Lookout
Captain Cook Lookout adjoins the lighthouse car park. As well as having an outstanding view to the north, there are picnic tables, barbecues and toilets. Jack Perkins Walking Track and the Smoky Cape to Little Bay Walk leave from the lookout area. 

View north from Captain Cooks Lookout.

Jack Perkins Walk: Grade 4, 2 km return.
We enjoyed the walk past yellow flowering dogwoods to North Smoky Beach and back. 

View south, back to the lighthouse, from North Smoky Beach.

View north from North Smoky Beach.

We encountered a pair of King Parrots and a Black-shouldered Kite along the way.

Australian King Parrot, male.

Black-shouldered Kite, on the hunt.

Smoky Cape Campground:
Smoky Cape Campground is nestled between coastal rainforest and South Smoky Beach. The campground is suitable for tents and camper trailers and can be accessed with a 2WD. The beach can be accessed by 4WD and is an idyllic beach fishing location.

Smoky Cape Campground

4WD beach access from Smoky Cape Campground.

View north from South Smoky Beach in front of Smoky Cape Campground.

Details for Smoky Cape Campground:

Where: The campground is in the northern end of Hat Head National Park; a few kilometers south of Trial Bay and South West Rocks. The campground is on the right off Lighthouse Road before arriving at Smoky Cape Lighthouse.
Access: 2WD, unsealed roads, all weather. 4WD required to access the beach.
Bookings & Fees: No bookings. Adults $6, Children $3.50. Entry Fee: $8 per day or buy a pass; covers the campground and the beach. Camping is allowed for up to 6 weeks.
Facilities: Picnic tables, wood barbecues (BYO wood), non-flush toilets. No water.
Prohibited: Pets, smoking.
Camping Type: Tent, camping beside vehicle, camper trailer.
Sites: 20 unmarked sites. Larger area than it looks.


Bird List: White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Black-shouldered Kite, Pied Butcherbird, Pied Currawong, Australian Magpie, Red Wattlebird, Little Wattlebird, Eastern Whipbird, Australian King Parrot.

Trial Bay Gaol and Walks in Arakoon National Park, NSW.

Inside Trail Bay Gaol

When we camped at Trial Bay Gaol Campground the annual Sculpture in the Gaol was on. For the normal admission price we were able to explore the historical aspects of the gaol with the added bonus of a huge array of mostly quirky statues.

Sculpture in the Gaol; Rhythm Hunters by Kat Atkins

Sculpture in the Gaol: Cookie by Alf Blakey. My personal favourite.

Crocasawrus by John Wilby, Sculpture in the Gaol.

Furnished cell in Trial Bay Gaol

View from the Sentry Tower, Trial Bay Gaol.

The remains of the failed breakwall can be seen from the sentry tower in Trial Bay Gaol.

The  remains of the failed breakwall, Trial Bay.

Striated Pardalote next to the breakwall.

As it was winter when we camped at Trial Bay Gaol, we didn't swim but we did enjoy whale watching from the main car park of the gaol.

Humpback Whale, Trial Bay Gaol.

Humpback Whale, Trial Bay Gaol.

Trial Bay Campground is very scenic, situated on a headland between Trial Bay, the open ocean and national park forest.

Mermaid Pools, Trial Bay Gaol.

Brahminy Kite, Trial Bay Gaol.

Monument Hill Walking Track, Grade 3, 1.4 km one way.

Men of German descent were sent to Trial Bay Gaol during the First World War and the monument on the hill overlooking the gaol was built as a tribute to those who died during their internment.

German Monument, Arakoon National Park.

View of Trial Bay Gaol from Monument Hill Walking Track.

Monument Hill Walking Track.

When we arrived at Little Bay Picnic Area, rather than return the way we had come we returned via a section of the Bridle Trail and then made our way along the Powder Magazine Walking Track.

Little Bay Picnic Area.

Bridle Trail, Grade 2, 600m one way.

Bridal Trail, Arakoon National Park.

Powder Magazine Walking Track, Grade 3, 1.1 km one way.

Powder Magazine, Arakoon National Park.

Remains of a Powder Magazine, Arakoon National Park.

Nearby attractions are Smoky Cape Lighthouse and South West Rocks which I will cover in the next blogs.

Trial Bay Gaol Campground, Arakoon National Park, NSW.

Trial Bay Gaol in the morning light.

Trial Bay Gaol Campground is a bit more expensive than the average national park campground but I have often read that it is a favourite campground for many people so we had to go and check it out. We timed our visit for the end of winter and were able to utilize a Pay 2 Nights Stay for 3 Deal. The deal only covers certain sites and doesn't include the beach front but we were happy with our site which was central to the camp kitchen, gaol and the walks. All the other sites on the row we chose were booked out so we got quite a surprise when we arrived to discover that we were the only ones camping along that strip. My guess is that these sites were being given the chance to recuperate during the quiet season. The road in front of our tent was surprisingly busy so it would be a good idea to choose another area if you have young children. One amusing thing about our site was that it was adjacent to a speed hump and all the passing traffic had to slow down in front of our tent and give us a wave.  

Our campsite, site 35.

A lot of Eastern Grey Kangeroos graze in the campground. Every night a kangaroo would lay down and sleep under our awning and during the day it would hang about grazing peacefully. 

The eastern grey kangaroo that liked to graze around our campsite.

There are several distinct camping areas in the campground; from walk-in tent sites right through to sites with power and water. 

Front Beach campsites.

Campsites with power and water.

The overflow campground is also on the waterfront.

It turned out handy that we weren't too far from the camp kitchen because it rained most of the time we were at Trial Bay Gaol and we spent one whole morning in the camp kitchen reading and sorting our photos when it got too wet to walk around. Nearly everyone else was camping in RV's so the camp kitchen was not busy.

The main amenities block and camp kitchen are only accessible by pin code.

The camp kitchen.

Of course, the morning we were leaving we woke to a beautiful fine day and I was able to get a photo of the goal with the rising sun throwing a golden glow over the stonework.

Humpback whales were migrating south when we were there and it is easy to see them from the gaol car park and the foreshore near the overflow campground. Some of the whales came quite close to shore but I found it quite a challenge to get photos of them as they would dissapear no sooner than they appeared and it is a guessing game as to where they will appear again.

Humpback whale.

Besides whale watching there is plenty to do at Trial Bay Gaol Campground. Visiting the gaol (fees apply), walks, fishing and I'm sure swiming would be popular in the warmer months. 

Front Beach and Trial Bay are right in front of the campground.

Small craft boat ramp.

Main boat ramp.

We were lucky that there was a sculpture exhibit in the gaol during our stay as I am a bit of a sculpture fan. 

 "Rhythm Hunters" by Kat Atkins. Sculpture in the Gaol is an annual event in August.

I will cover the gaol, and the walks we did, in more detail in the next blog.


Details for Trial Bay Gaol Campground:
Where: Arakoon National Park. Mid North Coast NSW. 105 km, 1h 15 min, south of Coffs Harbour or 85 km, 1hr 5min, north of Port Macquarie.
Access: 2WD, sealed roads.
Booking & Fees: Ph 13000 72757. Best to go online and put in the type of site and the prefered area with the dates as the prices vary depending on season and location. Prices range from $31 to $61.50 for 1 - 2 people per night. Can book on arrival if a quiet time but gets booked out peak times. We stayed in winter when there is usually a 3 nights for the price of 2 deal; only applies to a limited number of sites, not beachfront. Minimum rate is for 2 people. There is no vehicle entry fee. 
Entry to Trial Bay Gaol: not included in the camping fee. 9am - 4.30pm daily, closed Chrismas Day. Adults $11, concession $8, 2 adults and 2 children $30.
Sites: Numbered sites designated for specific camping types. Suitable for tents, camping beside your vehicle, camper trailers, motorhomes, caravans. Limited for big rigs. There is a section with power and water. Check in after 2pm, check out before 12, late fee applies. Beach front sites near boat ramp can be disturbed by early morning fishing noise; especially January to April.
Facilities: 4 toilet blocks; one with pin code entry, flush toilets and hot showers. Aditional cold showers. Some amenities blocks have power points. Pin code entry to camp kitchen with 2 tables, microwave, hot plate, cook top, fridge/freezer, sink with hot and cold water (no cooking utensils). There are no BBQs in the campground only on the foreshore. Laundry with pin code entry and coin operated machines. Drinking water at the powered sites. Some picnic tables. Walks. Phone reception. Boat ramp. Garbage station. Dump Point, key required. Historical area. Kiosk/restaurant towards the back of the park. Fishing with recreational licence allowed. Some wheelchair accessible facilities.
Prohibited: No fires. No solid fuel burners. No pets. No generators. No smoking. Do not feed wildlife. No amplified music. No anti-social behaviour. Keep noise to a minimum and no noise after 10pm. No ropes or equipment to be attached to trees. No recharging car batteries at amenities power points.
Note: Must check into the Visitor Information Centre at the front of the gaol, 9am - 4.30pm daily, before setting up camp and you will be given a pin code to the facilities. If arriving afterhours, phone first 02 6566 6168.

Wildlife: Eastern Gray Kangaroo. Humpback Whales. Birds: White-bellied Sea-Eagle, Brahminy Kite, Osprey, Pied Butcherbird, Galah, Little Black Cormorant, Pied Currawong, Australasian Gannet, Australian Wood Duck, Australasian Figbird, Straw-necked Ibis, Laughing Kookaburra, Rainbow Lorikeet, Australian Magpie, Masked Lapwing, Pied Oystercatcher, Striated Pardalote, Crested Pigeon, Silver Gulls, Crested Tern, Red Watlebird, Little Wattlebird, Willie Wagtail. Heard: Pheasant Coucal.