Kylies Beach Campground, Crowdy Bay National Park, NSW.

Kylies Beach.

Kylies Beach Campground is a  large grassy campground set behind the beach. Like Indian Head Campground, Kylies Beach Campground is cheaper than Diamond Head Campground for solo travelers as there is no $24 minimum. Diamond Head Campground is lovely but the designated sites lean more to a caravan park style feel, so if you prefer a less structured campground then Kylies Beach would be our pick.

Kylies Beach Campground

Kylies Beach Campground.

4WD access to the beach adjoins the campground. The car park is called Kylies Beach Car Park but the beach is sign posted at the beach access as Crowdy Beach. As I've only ever heard it referred to as Kylies Beach, and to avoid confusion, I'm sticking with Kylies Beach. A permit is required before driving on the beach.

Kylies Beach Car Park and 4WD Access.

4WD access to Kylies Beach.

Kylies Beach looking north.

Kylies Beach looking south.

There are plenty of shady trees around the Campground and we saw a number of birds. Frequent visitors were Yellow-tailed Black Coackatoos, Red-browed Finches, Little and Red Wattlebirds.  

Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo.

Red-browed Finch.

We had read that koalas could be found in the campground but we didn't see any. We asked a ranger about the koalas and he told us that they came to the campground one day and found the last koala, a large male, dead on the ground and that none had been seen since. However, when I posted this on Facebook, one of our regular followers told us that she had seen koalas there in recent times so hopefully there is a future for koalas in the area.

The campground has good access to the excellent Diamond Headland Loop Walk: 4.3 km, Grade 3. It is only a 500 meter walk to Kylies Hut from the campground via Metcalfes Walk. Kylies Hut was built by local man Ernie Metcalfe for the well known Australian author Kylie Tennant. Kylie's book "The Man on the Headland" features the Diamond Head and Crowdy Bay area.

Kylies Hut.

Details for Kylies Beach Campground:
Where: Crowdy Bay National Park, NSW. 53 km, 50 minutes, south of Port Macquarie via the highway. 352 km, 4 hours, north of the Sydney Bridge. Leave the highway at Ocean Drive near Kew and drive through Laurieton and Dunbogan. Dunbogan Head Road becomes Diamond Head Road on entering the national park. It is about 7 km of unsealed road to the rangers office at Diamond Head Campground to book in and then a further 4 km unsealed road towards the end of Kylies Road.
Access: The 2WD, all weather, unsealed road was in good condition when we were there in August 2018. 
Bookings & Fees: No pre-bookings. Pay camping and entry fees at Diamond Head Campground ranger office before setting up. $12 per adult, $6 per child 5 - 15 yrs, free for children 0-4 years old. There is a daily vehicle fee for park entry of $8 or buy an annual pass. 
Sites: Undefined grassy sites. Suitable for tents, roof-top tents, camping beside vehicles, camper trailers, caravans, motorhomes and big rigs. 
Facilities: Amenities block with cold showers and toilets. Information. Walks. Fires permitted in off-the ground braziers only. Firewood and ice can be bought from the rangers office at Diamond Head Campground. No water. No power. We had Telstra phone reception. Separate car park at 4WD beach access; has an industrial bin. 4WD access to the beach with a permit from the Port Macqaurie-Hastings Council; arrange before arrival.
Prohibitions: No pets. No fires on the ground. No gathering firewood. No smoking.
Contact: Port Macquarie National Parks Office 02 6588 5555 enquiries only, no bookings.

Indian Head Campground and Kylies Hut Campground, Crowdy Bay National Park, NSW.

Indian Head Campground.

Indian Head Campground is the smallest of the three campgrounds at the northern end of Crowdy Bay National Park and also the furtherest from the beach. There was no one camping there when we were there in August 2018 and it was very tranquil with Eastern Grey Kangaroos snoozing on the grass. It is cheaper than Diamond Head Campground for solo campers as there is no $24 minimum.

Indian Head Campground.

Amenities block and access to Kylies Hut Trail in the background.

Eastern Grey Kangaroo snoozing at Indian Head Campground.

The campground has access to the excellent Diamond Head Loop Walk (4.3 km, Grade 3). Or you can walk to Diamond Head Campground via the Forest Walking Track which is three kilometers return, Grade 3. I will cover the walks in Crowdy Bay National Park in a separate blog.

Kylies Hut Walk-in Campground:

It is only a 400 meter walk to Kylies Hut Walk-in Campground from near the amenities block in Indian Head Campground. Alternatively, it is only 500 meters from Kylies Beach Campground. We didn't camp there but it is a lovely grassy area for those who don't mind walking their gear in. There are no toilets or showers in the campground. Camping and lighting fires inside the hut is prohibited except in an emergency. Otherwise the rules and costs are the same as for Indian Head Campground as detailed below.

Kylies Hut 

Kylies Hut was built by local man Ernie Metcalfe for the well known Australian author Kylie Tennant. Kylie's book "The Man on the Headland" features the Diamond Head and Crowdy Bay area. We saw plenty of birds on the fringes of the campground in the short time we were there.

Eastern Spinebill

Eastern Yellow Robin.

Details for Indian Head Campground:
Where: Crowdy Bay National Park, NSW. 52 km, 48 minutes, south of Port Macquarie via the highway. 351 km, 4 hours, north of the Sydney Bridge. Leave the highway at Ocean Drive near Kew, through Laurieton and Dunbogan. Dunbogan Head Road becomes Diamond Head Road on entering the national park. It is about 7 km of unsealed road to the Diamond Head Campground rangers office, book in, then a further 3 km of unsealed road to the campground at the end of Indian Head Road.
Access: The 2WD, all weather, unsealed road was in good condition when we were there in August 2018. 
Bookings & Fees: No pre-bookings. Pay camping and entry fees at Diamond Head Campground ranger office before setting up. $12 per adult, $6 per child 5 - 15 yrs, free for children 0-4 years old. There is a daily vehicle fee for park entry of $8 or buy an annual pass. 
Sites: Undefined grassy sites. The campground is suitable for tents, roof-top tents, camping beside vehicles, camper trailers, caravans and motorhomes. 
Facilities: Amenities block with cold showers and non-flush toilets. We had Telstra phone reception. Walks. Fires permitted in off-the ground braziers only. Firewood and ice can be bought from the rangers office at Diamond Head Campground. No water. No power.  
Prohibitions: No pets. No fires on the ground. No gathering firewood. No smoking.
Contact: Port Macquarie National Parks Office 02 6588 5555 enquiries only, no booking.

Lions Road and Border Loop Section of Border Ranges National Park, NSW.

From Brisbane we took the Lions Road to Border Ranges National Park. After leaving Andrew Drynan Park we drove along Running Creek Road and crossed the border from Queensland into New South Wales where the road becomes the Lions Road. We turned into the Border Loop Road to check out the lookout over the spiral railway and views of the McPherson Ranges.

There is a very pretty picnic area in front of the lookout with tables and toilets.

Border Loop Lookout.

Border Loop Picnic Area

The spiral or loop railway is 400 meters below the lookout and a little hard to see at first but there is good signage and plenty of information for the history and railway buffs.

View from Border Loop Lookout.

Border Loop Walk: Grade 2, 1.5 km loop.

The trail-head for the Border Loop Walk is easy to miss but it is sign posted and can be found near the entry to the lookout car park. It is a pleasant walk through World Heritage listed forest that doesn't take long to do. We noticed a few insect traps placed by the Queensland University of Technology in the surrounding vegetation.

Border Loop Walk.

Insect Traps.

Walking in the leaf-strewn forest.

We saw a few Logrunners on the forest floor. As well as King Parrots and Restless Flycatchers on the forest edges.

Logrunner, female.

King Parrot.

After a picnic we drove on to Sheepstation Creek Campground in the  Border Ranges National Park via the Lions Road, Gradys Creek Road, Simes Road and Forest Road. We came to roadworks on the Lions Road and were informed that there was a twenty minute wait. The road worker suggested we back track a few hundred meters and turn onto Gradys Creek Road where the railway bridge crosses Gradys Creek. This turned out to be a great little detour. We crossed a few causeways which were lightly running with water and enjoyed the country scenery before rejoining Lions Road outside the roadworks.

Railway Bridge over Gradys Creek.

Cows and country scenery.

Walks in the Spicers Gap Section of Main Range National Park, QLD.

View of Mt Cordeaux and Bare Rock from Mt Mathieson.

Mt Mathieson Trail: 
To Mt Mathieson and return to the Spicers Gap Campground is 3.6 km, Class 4. The full circuit including the Mt Mathieson Trail, Heritage Trail, Governors Chair and Spicers Gap Road is over 8 km. However, the section from Mt Mathieson towards the remains of the timber jinker is an ungraded track for experience hikers only.

Map of the full Mt Mathieson Circuit.

The trail-head for the Mt Mathieson Trail is across the road from Spicers Gap Campground. At the start of the walk we could clearly see gum trees damaged by Bell Miners. This damage can also be seen along the Heritage Trail.

Damaged gum trees caused by Bell Miners.

The walk gradually ascends Mt Mathieson where there are good views over the Cunningham Highway and the Fassifern Valley. We have done this walk before but this time we were particularly taken by the views towards Mt Cordeaux as we had recently walked to Mt Cordeaux and Bare Rock. The marked track stops at this point. We continued on but the track is indistinct in places and runs along a narrow ridge line with sharp drop offs and some scrambling is required.

View of Mt Cordeaux and Bare Rock from Mt Mathieson.

Distant view of the Fassifern Valley and the emergency truck ramp on the Cunningham HWY.

The challenging section of the walk emerges into a shady forest section which in turn leads to an open grassy section. Previously, we encountered wild pigs in the grassy section but all was quite this time round.

Tranquil forest section of the walk.

Open grassland section of the walk.

The trail goes past the remains of an old timber jinker before emerging at a car park on the 4WD section of Spicers Gap Road which connects to the Cunningham Highway at Tregony. 

Remains of an old timber jinker.

It used to be possible to drive from Cunninghams Highway to the Governors Chair but to protect the historic cobblestone section of Spicers Gap Road from damage the middle section is now gated. However, it is a pleasant walk from here to the Governors Chair Lookout.

Heritage Trail: Class 4, 1.6 km one way.
The old road is of historic significance and is signposted with information along the trail.

Protected section of  Spicers Gap Road.

Now that there is no 4WD access to the protected section of Spicers Gap Road we noticed that the stones are becoming overgrown and fungus was growing on the road when we were there this time.

The cobblestone section of Spicers Gap Road.

Spicers Peak.

We walked past a glimpse of Spicers Peak and startled a carpet python basking on the road before it quickly hid on the bank. We also saw a Grey Goshawk in a tree. When we were at Bare Rock we saw Grey Goshawks patrolling the ridges so they seem to like the general area.

Carpet Python.

Grey Goshawk.

Governors Chair. Caution: unfenced rock platform.
We arrived at the Governors Chair car park and took the short walk to the lookout. There are picnic tables at the car park but the rock platform at Governors Chair is an outstanding place to sit and contemplation the universe. Extreme caution required, especially with children, as this is a natural lookout with no barriers. At first, we didn't notice that we were sharing the lookout with a Lace Monitor basking in the sun.

Governors Chair Lookout.

Lace Monitor.

From the Governors Chair we descended two kilometers to Spicers Gap Campground via Spicers Gap Road. 

Spicers Gap Campground, Main Range National Park, QLD.

Spicers Gap Campground.

One of the things we love about Spicers Gap Campground is that it is very quiet. We were here during the week and once again we were camped here all alone. 

Toilet Block

Facilities are limited in the campground but there is a toilet block with non-flush toilets between the adjoining picnic area. Although there are no tables or wood barbecues in the campground it is only a short walk to the picnic area where there are three separate areas with a table and wood fire place. 

Pioneer Picnic Area

The first night we had a bandicoot darting around our campsite. Every morning and evening pairs of cockatoos flew over the campground. We saw Glossy Black Cockatoos, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos and Sulphur Crested Cockatoos. In the last five years we have had tremendous luck seeing Glossy Black Cockatoos but sadly our sightings of Red-tailed Black Cockatoos have dropped off significantly. 

Details for Spicers Gap Campground, April 2019:
Where: Spicers Gap section of Main Range National Park, QLD. 105 km west of Brisbane, off the Cunningham Highway. Continue past Aratula for 5 km then turn left into Lake Moogerah Road. After about 6 km turn into Spicers Gap Road which is a 2WD unsealed road and continue for 3.3 km to the campground and Picnic Area. 
Access: 3.3 km unsealed road. The national park section of Spicers Gap road is very narrow and not suitable for caravans, buses and large motorhomes. 
Sites: Tent campground. Undefined, grassy sites. Park behind bollards. Maximum 50 people.
Booking & Fees: Book online or by phone. I had Telstra reception. $6.65 per person (adults and children over 5 yrs) per night. Children under 5 years are free. Family Pass $26.20 for 1 to 2 adults with children under the age of 18, with a maximum of 8 people in total.
Facilities: Non-flush toilets. 1 non-potable water tap near toilets. Information. Walks. No bins. No showers. No fire rings. Braziers and above ground cookers are allowed, subject to fire bans.
Prohibited: No fires on the ground. No wood collection. No pets. No generators. No fire arms. No amplified music.
Pioneer Picnic Area: Day use area adjoining the campground. Shares the same toilet block. Has three table and three fire places. BYO wood.
Note: It is a further 2 km up a steep road to the Governors Chair Lookout.

Wildlife List: Carpet Python, Red-necked Wallaby, Bandicoot. Birds: Glossy Black-Cockatoo, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Satin Bowerbird, Grey Goshawk, Australian King Parrot, Rainbow Lorikeet, Crimson Rosella, Eastern Yellow Robin, Wonga Pigeon, Lewin's Honeyeater, Noisy Friarbird, Grey Shrike-thrush, Bell Miner, Noisy Miner, Grey Fantail, Red-backed Fairy-wren, White-throated Treecreeper, Pied Currawong, Laughing Kookaburra. 

Walks, Cunningham's Gap Section of Main Range National Park, QLD.

Mt Cordeaux Lookout, southern side. Cunninghams Highway and Mt Mitchell.

We parked in the Crest Car Park on the Cunningham Highway, Cunninghams Gap to go walking. Several walks leave from this car park.

National Parks QLD Map.

Box Forest Track: 5 km return, Class 3:
We have done this walk a few times before. Sometimes leaving from the Crest Car Park and other times from West Gap Creek Picnic Area further west up the Cunningham's Highway. It is a lovely green rainforest walk but, as it parallels the Cunningham Highway, traffic noise is audible throughout.

This trip we decided to combine the Rainforest Circuit, Mount Cordeaux Track, Bare Rock and Morgans Walk. All up about 13 kilometers, Class 4.

Rainforest Circuit: 1.6 km, Class 3:
This is a great short walk with a formed lookout and flora information signs. We saw several battered looking female Wonder Brown butterflies fluttering about in the dark damp rainforest environment.

Fassifern Valley Lookout

Rainforest Circuit 

Wonder Brown Heteronympha mirifica

Mount Cordeaux Track, 6.8 km, Class 4. Danger, Sheer cliffs:

It is quite a long slog to zig-zag up the side of Mount Cordeaux to get to the lookouts but it is a pleasant rainforest walk none the less and the views from the top are well worth the effort. As we climbed up, we were able to gauge our progress by looking down on the Cunningham's Highway and across to Mt Mitchell.

Cunninghams HWY and Mt Mitchell.

Finally, we saw a side track sign that indicated it was 65 meters to Mt Cordeaux. About half-way up there is a formed lookout with more views out over Mt Mitchell and at the top there is an unprotected rocky platform with great views over Lake Moogerah and the Fassifern Valley. The side-track finishes here and doesn't quite go to the summit. Next to the lookout there was a giant hole in the rock. I have not know if the hole is a man-made or geological formation but it certainly would have been helpful to have an information sign at the lookout.

Formed Lookout at Mount Cordeaux

Mystery hole at Mt Cordeaux Lookout.

Mount Cordeaux, southern side.

View of Fassifern Valley from Mt Cordeaux, northern side.

We retrace our steps to the main path and continue towards Bare Rock. It's not really clear where the Mt Cordeaux Track finishes and the Bare Rock Track takes over but even if you do not intend continuing all the way to Bare Rock I would encourage you to continue a little bit longer because the next section is truly awesome, although a head for heights and caution is required. The path traverses the flanks of Mt Cordeaux via a magnificent path through overhanging giant spear lilies and a sheer cliff drop-off on one side. After proceeding almost bent double under the spear lilies we arrived at the other side of Mt Cordeaux where there are more unformed lookouts with sheer drop-offs and magnificent views. 

Mt Cordeaux northern side.

View from northern side of Mt Cordeaux.

Bare Rock Track: 12.4 Km, Class 4, (includes Mount Cordeaux Walk):
Continuing along the path to Bare Rock we found plenty of fungus along the way and particularly liked the large arrangement on a fallen tree trunk as well as some large, tall, classically shaped ones beside the path.

Fungus on a fallen tree.

Super-sized Fungus.

We also noticed some Passalid Beetles on a fallen tree. These beetles, with various common names such as Bess Beetles and Patent Leather Beetles, live in small colonies and are rotting log specialists. I have only ever seen completely black ones before but this one appears to have black and white spotting on the head area.

Bess/Patent Leather Beetle 

Having previously ascended to Mt Cordeaux, most of the Bare Rock track is fairly flat but I had read, in the national parks brochure, that to get to Bare Rock, rock scrambling was required so I wasn't sure how difficult that would be. It turned out to be just a few meters of ascending rough track and I had no problem at all getting to the natural rock platform that is Bare Rock. 

The "rock scramble" up to Bare Rock.

This is a great location for a picnic, providing you are prepared to lug food and drink six kilometers up mountainsides to get it here. The views are once again extensive and magnificent and well worth the effort. 

Perfect picnic spot at Bare Rock.

View from Bare Rock.

Morgans Walk: extra 600m when added to Bare Rock Walk, Class 4:
After exploring and soaking in the view at Bare Rock, we retraced our steps 680 meters back to the turn-off to Morgans Walk. We found it a pleasant enough diversion of 700 meters return but the views at the end are limited and don't compare to Bare Rock or Mt Cordeaux.

View from Morgans Walk.

On our return to the car park we had to wait some time to leave because the way out was blocked by a vehicle towing a caravan. These unfortunate people drove into the car park assuming they would be able to exit out the other side. Unfortunately, the car park only has the one entry and exit point so they had to turn the vehicle and caravan around in a very tight space. Luckily, the car park wasn't completely full and with much maneuvering and some heaving on the fence they eventually managed to turn around.

Caravan in the Crest Car Park.

After the walk we headed off to the nearest National Park campground, nineteen kilometers away at Spicers Gap, Main Range National Park. This is a tents only campground but Manna Gum Campground and Poplar Flat Campground in the Goomburra section of Main Range National Park, 55 kilometers away, are also good and take all rig types.

Wildlife seen while walking, April 2019: Red-legged Pademelon, Passalid (Bess) Beetle, Wonder Brown Butterfly Heteronympha mirifica. Birds: Grey Goshawk, Australian King Parrot, Albert's Lyrebird, Green Catbird, Satin Bowerbird, Grey Fantail, Rufous Fantail, Lewin's Honeyeater, Scarlet Honeyeater, White-browed Scrubwren, Brown Gerygone, Brown Cuckoo-Dove, Pied Currawong, Bell Miner, Eastern Yellow Robin, Pale Yellow Robin.