Manna Gum Camping Area, Goomburra Section of Main Range National Park, QLD.

Dwarfed by the Manna Gums at Manna Gum Camping Area.

The Goomburra section of Main Range National Park is one of our favourite places and we return there whenever we get the chance. It is so relaxing to sit in a camp chair and have ringside seats for such a great variety of wildlife.

Satin Bowerbird invading our kitchen.

Red-necked Pademelons are common at Main Range National Park.

We didn't see any snakes or Southern Angle-headed Dragons while at Goomburra in June 2019 which is perhaps not surprising as it was only about 1 C at night and 16 C during the day. On previous visits we have seen an old Manna Gum with a nesting hollow being used by Glossy Black Cockatoos but this trip the tree was nowhere to be seen and we fear that it was cut down as we could see a lot of cut down tree debris. We did still see a pair of Glossy Black Cockatoos fly over the campground in the late afternoon so hopefully they have found another nesting tree nearby.

We always enjoy sitting beside our tent and watching the local bird life. There are always plenty of Satin Bowerbirds and Superb Fairy-wrens about. This trip we were pleased to see three Paradise Riflebirds stripping bark off the trees behind our tent.

Pacific Riflebird.

Satin Bowerbird, male.

Superb Fairy-wren

We noticed a bit of a commotion amongst the Satin Bowerbirds and were lucky to witness a courtship ritual involving the males twitching violently while offering females a nice tasty green leaf. A couple of the males were successful so it seems the population of Satin Bowerbirds is secure for the future. This activity occurred in low vegetation and not at a bower as might be expected.

Courtship Ritual

We were keen to walk the Winder Track because it was the only walk we hadn't yet done in the Goomburra Section of Main Range National Park. It is a 12 km return, Grade 4 walk. The walk starts from a car park at the end of Lookout Road. Although the track is along a ridge line there are only limed views. However, there are a couple of stunning lookouts along Lookout Road that are well worth doing.

Limited views on the early part of the Winder Track.

We very quickly discovered that there is a lot of damage caused by feral pigs along the track. We soon passed a pig trap that had been freshly baited by national park rangers. Of all the creatures that can be encountered in the Australian bush, pigs are my least favourite so we were glad that we didn't actually see any.

Pig Trap

We did see a few Lyrebirds in dense bush alongside the track but were unable to get any photos as they sent out strident alarm calls as we progressed along the track.

The Winder is an old piece of forestry equipment and was quite overgrown.

The Winder

As there is no seating and no view we took a few photos and headed back the way we had come. Overall, this walk is a bit underwhelming and I wouldn't put it on my list for a return visit, but hey, nothing ventured nothing gained.

Wildlife: Red-necked Pademelon, Red-necked Wallaby. Bird List: Satin Bowerbird, Australian Brush Turkey, Grey Butcherbird, Glossy Black Cockatoo, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Pied Currawong, Superb Fairy-wren, Red-browed Finch, Brown Gerygone, Lewin's Honeyeater, White-napped Honeyeater, Laughing Kookaburra, Albert's Lyrebird, Australian Magpie, Bell Miner, Noisy Miner, Australian King Parrot, Paradise Riflebird, Crimson Rosella, Yellow-throated Scrubwren, White-browed Scrubwren, Grey Shrike-thrush, Bassian Thrush, Brown Thornbill, Eastern Whipbird. Heard: Green Catbird, Pheasant Coucal, Common Koel.

Details for Manna Gum Campground:
Where: Goomburra section of Main Range National Park, QLD About 195 km south-west of Brisbane. From Brisbane drive up Cunningham's Gap. Turn right at Gladfield or Clintonvale. Turn right at Goomburra and drive along Inverramsay Road to the very end. 
Access: Unsealed roads. Some pot holes. Suitable for tents and all rig types, however, there is a very short section between Poplar Flat Camping Area and Manna Gum Camping Area that is narrow and uneven and sometimes has overhanging vegetation so if you have a high or large rig it might be better to book into Poplar Flat Camping Area.
Sites: grassed area, no designated sites, some shade.
Fees & Bookings: Bookings must be made by phone or internet before arriving as there is no reception at, or anywhere near, the campground. Ph 13 74 68. $6.55 per person per night, adults and children. Has single rate. Family Rate: $26.20 per night includes 1 to 2 adults and a maximum of 8 people (ie up to 2 adults and up to 6 children, extra adults $6.55)
Facilities: Non-flush toilets, fire places, BYO wood, some non-potable water taps throughout campground. No showers, no power, no phone reception.
Prohibited: No pets, no generators.

The Ridge Track, Goomburra Section, Main Range National Park, QLD.

The Ridge Track: Class 4, 5 km return.

The first section of the Ridge Track is very steep and contains sections of slippery shale. Nevertheless we couldn't resist doing the walk again as we have fond memories of encountering Albert's Lyrebirds about halfway along the track. This time we didn't see any Lyrebirds but we could hear them. There was plenty of fruit for the birds to eat so it wasn't surprising that we saw a nice variety of birds. We also saw quite a few butterflies. A feature of the walk this time were the large number of native Golden Everlasting flowers.

Bassian Thrush

Australian Logrunner

Bell Miner and Red-browed Finch

Piccabeen fruit and native figs.

Macleay's Swallowtail Graphium macleayanus

Orchard Swallowtail

Birdlist for The Ridge Track on this trip: Brown Cuckoo Dove, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Australian King Parrots, Crimson Rosella, Laughing Kookaburra, White-throated Treecreeper, Superb Fairy-wren, White-browed Scrubwren, Bell Miner, Noisy Miner, Lewin's Honeyeater, Yellow-faced Honeyeater, Logrunner, Eastern Yellow Robin, Grey Fantail, Rufous Fantail, Pied Currawong, Red-browed Finch, Bassian Thrush. Previously we have seen Albert's Lyrebirds here but this time we could only hear them.

Dalrymple Circuit, Goomburra Section, Main Range National Park, QLD.

Dalrymple Circuit, Class 3, 1.2 km circuit.

The Dalrymple Circuit is a great short walk that we love to do when camping at Manna Gum campground. Previously we have seen a Southern Angled-headed Dragon on the walk but we didn't see one this time. However, they are still there because someone asked me to identify a photo they had taken in the Dalrymple Circuit and I was happy to see that it was a juvenile Angle-headed Dragon. The same people got excellent photos of Green Catbirds there as well. I admit to being jealous of their close encounter with Catbirds because I have always found them quite a challenge to photograph.

Signage on the Dalrymple Circuit

The Dalrymple Circuit is the domain of a very healthy looking male Satin Bowerbird. After a short search we found his bower as well.

Red-necked Pademelons are common here but we have found them to be much shyer than the ones in Lamington National Park.

In the early morning we saw this spider, which had attached itself to a stick in the water, "fishing" for prey.

Bird List for the Dalrymple Circuit on this trip: White-headed Pigeon, Brown Cuckoo Dove, Wonga Pigeon, Crimson Rosella, Superb fairy-wren, White-browed Scrubwren, Yellow-throated Scrubwren, Weebill, Bell Miner, Noisy Miner, Lewin's Honeyeater, Eastern Whipbird, Eastern Yellow Robin, Jacky Winter, Golden Whistler, Australasian Figbird, Satin Bowerbird (female, male and bower), Red-browed Finch.  We did not see any Green Catbirds here but some other campers got good views and photos of Green Catbirds showing nicely down low and out in the open.

North Branch Track, Goomburra Section, Main Range National Park, QLD.

The North Branch Track is a Class 4, 7 km return walk that starts at the bottom of Lookout Road, just past Kurrajong Picnic Area. If arriving by car it is possible to park at the picnic area and walk across Dalrymple Creek to the trailhead or drive over the creek where you will find room for two vehicles at the start of the walk.

Kurrajong Picnic Area has picnic tables and a parking area.

The creek crossing at the start of Lookout Road

We walked from our campsite at Manna Gum. Before crossing Dalrymple Creek on foot we waited for a White-headed Pigeon to finish having a drink.

White-headed Pigeon

We really enjoyed this walk which starts in open country and ends up in lush rainforest. We counted thirteen creek crossings, however, they were all fairly shallow and easy to cross on our visit. There were some striking epiphytes along the creek.

Two of the many creek crossings along the North Branch Track

We saw lots of White-naped Honeyeaters and a variety of fungi along the track.

The White-naped Honeyeater has a distinctive red eye skin.

The track ends in a shady forest beside a creek. We sat on some rocks and enjoyed a picnic while being closely watched by a Pale-yellow Robin before returning by the same track.

Pale-yellow Robin

On our way back we encountered a juvenile Red-bellied Black Snake on the path. I was also excited to see two tiny Elf Skinks Eroticoscincus graciloides darting through the leaf litter but they were too quick for a photo. There were quite a few butterflies about.

Red-bellied Black Snake

Birdlist:
White-headed Pigeon, Australian King Parrot, Red-browed Treecreeper, Superb Fairy-wren, Brown Thornbill, Bell Miner, Noisy Miner, White-naped Honeyeater, Eastern Whipbird, Eastern Yellow Robin, Pale-yellow Robin, Grey Shrike-thrush, Golden Whistler, Rufous Whistler, Grey Fantail, Australasian Figbird, Red-browed Finch.

Lookout Road, Goomburra Section, Main Range National Park, QLD.

On this camping trip to the Goomburra Section of Main Range National Park we were keen to drive up Lookout Road and do the walk to Araucaria Falls and stop at Sylvesters and Mount Castle Lookouts.

Lookout Road is a short distance from Manna Gum Campground, starting next to Kurrajong Picnic Area. The road is listed as unsealed but we found that the steeper sections were sealed for ease of use. First it is necessary to ford Dalrymple Creek. The road is gated and rangers close the road if conditions are unsuitable.

Araucaria Falls Track, Class 4, 3.6 km return. 
The parking area is 3.8 km past Kurrajong Picnic Area. We drove up early in the morning and had the carpark to ourselves. Some parts of the track are rough and uneven and it heads steadily downwards to the base of the falls. We often see Logrunners when we walk in dark forests with lots of leaf litter but this time we were delighted to get a photo of a juvenile Logrunner.

We saw an Albert's Lyrebird high in the trees. It moved away in front of us until it found a Crows Nest fern in the canopy and promptly forgot about us while it had a good scratch in the leaf litter that had accumulated in the top of the fern.

The track crosses over the top of the falls before continuing down to the base. The falls are beautiful and I'm surprised that they aren't more widely known. 

On the steady climb back up to the carpark we saw a highly venomous Rough-scaled Snake crossing the path ahead of us. We took a couple of photos and it wasn't until we looked closely at the photos later that we discovered the snake had turned its head around and was having a good look at us.

Rough-scaled Snake Tropidechis carinatus

Sylvesters Lookout Track, Class 3, 940 meters return. 
There is a small car park 900 meters further along Lookout Road from the Araucaria Falls Parking Area and a short walk to the lookout with magnificent views.

Mt Edwards, Lake Moogerah, Mt Alfred, Mt Greville and Mt Barney.

Mount Castle Lookout Track, Class 3, 960 meters return. 
There is a small parking area about 1.6 km further along Lookout Road from the Sylvesters Lookout carpark. This short walk winds through damp rainforest. It is worth going to both lookouts as the views are quite different.

Mount Castle

Winder Track, Class 4, 12 km return. 
The track starts at the end of Lookout Road, 6.3 km past Kurrajong Picnic Area.
We liked the look of this walk and hope to do it on another trip.

Bird List for the Araucaria Falls Track:
Albert's Lyrebird, Brown Thornbill, Australian Logrunner, Bassian Thrush. We could hear Catbirds but did not see them.

Manna Gum Campground, Goomburra Section, Main Range National Park, QLD.

We have camped in Manna Gum Campground twice before. The first time was in our tent and that trip ended up becoming my first blog. Later we spent our first night in our new Kimberely Karavan at Manna Gum Campground on our way to Girraween National Park. This time we came back with the aim of doing the walks we hadn’t managed to do previously.

We were thrilled that quite close to our van a pair of Glossy Black-Cockatoos came in every evening to roost in a tree hollow. The female would arrive first and enter the tree hollow then the male would arrive and after quite a drawn out ritual the female would finally allow him to join her. Several times we saw them flying with one other Glossy and on one occasion we saw four together. These beautiful birds are listed as vulnerable.

Glossy-Black Cockatoo, female.

Manna Gum Campground is a lovely place to sit and listen to a large colony of Bell Miners. We noticed that there are a lot of dead trees around the campground and we had been wondering what was killing them. We found out from other campers that the trees are dying because the Bell Miners actively chase away other birds. Bell Miners don’t eat the lerp insects that damage trees and because they chase away the birds that would normally eat the lerp insects the trees become overrun by insects and over time the trees die. Apparently, this whole process is explained in the book Where Song Began by Tim Low. We will be getting our hands on the book as soon as we get the opportunity.

Bell Miner

Dead trees at Manna Gum Campground.

Satin Bowerbirds are popular residents in the campground and one of the few birds that seem to survive the Bell Miner harassment. We were able to locate a Satin Bowerbird bower in the Dalrymple Circuit.

Satin Bowerbird Bower.

Red-necked Pademelons like to graze on the grass in the early morning. They can also be seen along the trails but are fairly shy here and will dart away when they hear you coming. There were a few goannas wandering around checking out the camp sites and fire rings for tasty leftovers.

After seeing so many White-headed Pigeons at The Channon Village Campground we saw several at Manna Gum which is the first time we have seen them here.

I often mention the wonderful people we meet on our travels so it is only fair that I mention that on one side of us, for two nights of our stay, we had the most intrusive camping neighbours that we have ever encountered. Typically, people respect the boundaries of individual campsites but not these people and I ended up asking one of them to “Please leave” our campsite twice, so as you can imagine things were a bit frosty. Fortunately, in our experience, such problems are rare. We had a couple of lovely neighbours on the other side who were camping in an impressive camper trailer on it's first night out. We also had an enjoyable “Happy Hour” with two interesting couples who had been camping together off and on for years both in Australia and overseas.

A young Gympie Stinging Tree looking Innocent in the morning light.

There were quite a few Gympie stinging trees alongside the various walks and unfortunately one of the lovely ladies camped next to us accidentally brushed up against some Gympie stinging foliage when she was turning a corner on a track. Her arm became red and swollen and they quickly packed up and I hope she was able to get some relief with medical attention.

Bird List for this trip at Manna Gum Campground: (I will post separate bird lists in the blogs for the walks.) 
White-headed Pigeon, Glossy Black Cockatoo, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Australian King Parrot, Crimson Rosella, Laughing Kookaburra, Superb Fairy Wren, White-browed Scrubwren, Yellow-throated Scrubwren, Bell Miner, Noisy Miner, Lewin's Honeyeater, Grey Shrike-thrush, Willie Wagtail, Satin Bowerbird, Grey Butcherbird, Australian Magpie, Pied Currawong, Welcome Swallow, Red-browed Finch. We also saw a small flock of Common (Indian) Myna on the side of Inverramsay Road on the drive in.

Manna Gum Campground, Main Range National Park.

Details for the Goomburra Section of Main Range National Park:

Where: About 195 km south-west of Brisbane. From Brisbane drive up Cunningham's Gap. Turn right at Gladfield or Clintonvale. Turn right at Goomburra and drive along Inverramsay Road to the very end.

Campgrounds: Poplar Flat and Manna Gum. Both suitable for Big Rigs, Motorhomes, Caravans, Camper Trailers and Tents beside vehicles.

Facilities: Kurrajong Picnic Area has picnic tables and wood BBQ's, the nearest toilets are a short walk to Poplar Flat. Both campgrounds have fire rings, toilets and several non-drinking water taps. Walks. No showers. No phone. No phone reception. No internet.

Prohibitions: No pets, no generators.

Bookings: Bookings must be made by phone or on the internet before arriving. 
Phone: 13 74 68
www.nprsr.qld.gov.au 
http://parks.nprsr.qld.gov.au/permits
Camping Permit: $5.95 per adult, $3.30 per child aged 5 to 17 years, free for children under 5 years. Family Rate: $23.80 for 1 to 2 adults with children under 18. Maximum of 8 people.
No vehicle fee.