Manna Gum Camping Area, Goomburra Section of Main Range National Park, QLD.

Dwarfed by the Manna Gums at Manna Gum Camping Area.

The Goomburra section of Main Range National Park is one of our favourite places and we return there whenever we get the chance. It is so relaxing to sit in a camp chair and have ringside seats for such a great variety of wildlife.

Satin Bowerbird invading our kitchen.

Red-necked Pademelons are common at Main Range National Park.

We didn't see any snakes or Southern Angle-headed Dragons while at Goomburra in June 2019 which is perhaps not surprising as it was only about 1 C at night and 16 C during the day. On previous visits we have seen an old Manna Gum with a nesting hollow being used by Glossy Black Cockatoos but this trip the tree was nowhere to be seen and we fear that it was cut down as we could see a lot of cut down tree debris. We did still see a pair of Glossy Black Cockatoos fly over the campground in the late afternoon so hopefully they have found another nesting tree nearby.

We always enjoy sitting beside our tent and watching the local bird life. There are always plenty of Satin Bowerbirds and Superb Fairy-wrens about. This trip we were pleased to see three Paradise Riflebirds stripping bark off the trees behind our tent.

Pacific Riflebird.

Satin Bowerbird, male.

Superb Fairy-wren

We noticed a bit of a commotion amongst the Satin Bowerbirds and were lucky to witness a courtship ritual involving the males twitching violently while offering females a nice tasty green leaf. A couple of the males were successful so it seems the population of Satin Bowerbirds is secure for the future. This activity occurred in low vegetation and not at a bower as might be expected.

Courtship Ritual

We were keen to walk the Winder Track because it was the only walk we hadn't yet done in the Goomburra Section of Main Range National Park. It is a 12 km return, Grade 4 walk. The walk starts from a car park at the end of Lookout Road. Although the track is along a ridge line there are only limed views. However, there are a couple of stunning lookouts along Lookout Road that are well worth doing.

Limited views on the early part of the Winder Track.

We very quickly discovered that there is a lot of damage caused by feral pigs along the track. We soon passed a pig trap that had been freshly baited by national park rangers. Of all the creatures that can be encountered in the Australian bush, pigs are my least favourite so we were glad that we didn't actually see any.

Pig Trap

We did see a few Lyrebirds in dense bush alongside the track but were unable to get any photos as they sent out strident alarm calls as we progressed along the track.

The Winder is an old piece of forestry equipment and was quite overgrown.

The Winder

As there is no seating and no view we took a few photos and headed back the way we had come. Overall, this walk is a bit underwhelming and I wouldn't put it on my list for a return visit, but hey, nothing ventured nothing gained.

Wildlife: Red-necked Pademelon, Red-necked Wallaby. Bird List: Satin Bowerbird, Australian Brush Turkey, Grey Butcherbird, Glossy Black Cockatoo, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Pied Currawong, Superb Fairy-wren, Red-browed Finch, Brown Gerygone, Lewin's Honeyeater, White-napped Honeyeater, Laughing Kookaburra, Albert's Lyrebird, Australian Magpie, Bell Miner, Noisy Miner, Australian King Parrot, Paradise Riflebird, Crimson Rosella, Yellow-throated Scrubwren, White-browed Scrubwren, Grey Shrike-thrush, Bassian Thrush, Brown Thornbill, Eastern Whipbird. Heard: Green Catbird, Pheasant Coucal, Common Koel.

Details for Manna Gum Campground:
Where: Goomburra section of Main Range National Park, QLD About 195 km south-west of Brisbane. From Brisbane drive up Cunningham's Gap. Turn right at Gladfield or Clintonvale. Turn right at Goomburra and drive along Inverramsay Road to the very end. 
Access: Unsealed roads. Some pot holes. Suitable for tents and all rig types, however, there is a very short section between Poplar Flat Camping Area and Manna Gum Camping Area that is narrow and uneven and sometimes has overhanging vegetation so if you have a high or large rig it might be better to book into Poplar Flat Camping Area.
Sites: grassed area, no designated sites, some shade.
Fees & Bookings: Bookings must be made by phone or internet before arriving as there is no reception at, or anywhere near, the campground. Ph 13 74 68. $6.55 per person per night, adults and children. Has single rate. Family Rate: $26.20 per night includes 1 to 2 adults and a maximum of 8 people (ie up to 2 adults and up to 6 children, extra adults $6.55)
Facilities: Non-flush toilets, fire places, BYO wood, some non-potable water taps throughout campground. No showers, no power, no phone reception.
Prohibited: No pets, no generators.

Walks in the Spicers Gap Section of Main Range National Park, QLD.

View of Mt Cordeaux and Bare Rock from Mt Mathieson.

Mt Mathieson Trail: 
To Mt Mathieson and return to the Spicers Gap Campground is 3.6 km, Class 4. The full circuit including the Mt Mathieson Trail, Heritage Trail, Governors Chair and Spicers Gap Road is over 8 km. However, the section from Mt Mathieson towards the remains of the timber jinker is an ungraded track for experience hikers only.

Map of the full Mt Mathieson Circuit.

The trail-head for the Mt Mathieson Trail is across the road from Spicers Gap Campground. At the start of the walk we could clearly see gum trees damaged by Bell Miners. This damage can also be seen along the Heritage Trail.

Damaged gum trees caused by Bell Miners.

The walk gradually ascends Mt Mathieson where there are good views over the Cunningham Highway and the Fassifern Valley. We have done this walk before but this time we were particularly taken by the views towards Mt Cordeaux as we had recently walked to Mt Cordeaux and Bare Rock. The marked track stops at this point. We continued on but the track is indistinct in places and runs along a narrow ridge line with sharp drop offs and some scrambling is required.

View of Mt Cordeaux and Bare Rock from Mt Mathieson.

Distant view of the Fassifern Valley and the emergency truck ramp on the Cunningham HWY.

The challenging section of the walk emerges into a shady forest section which in turn leads to an open grassy section. Previously, we encountered wild pigs in the grassy section but all was quite this time round.

Tranquil forest section of the walk.

Open grassland section of the walk.

The trail goes past the remains of an old timber jinker before emerging at a car park on the 4WD section of Spicers Gap Road which connects to the Cunningham Highway at Tregony. 

Remains of an old timber jinker.

It used to be possible to drive from Cunninghams Highway to the Governors Chair but to protect the historic cobblestone section of Spicers Gap Road from damage the middle section is now gated. However, it is a pleasant walk from here to the Governors Chair Lookout.

Heritage Trail: Class 4, 1.6 km one way.
The old road is of historic significance and is signposted with information along the trail.

Protected section of  Spicers Gap Road.

Now that there is no 4WD access to the protected section of Spicers Gap Road we noticed that the stones are becoming overgrown and fungus was growing on the road when we were there this time.

The cobblestone section of Spicers Gap Road.

Spicers Peak.

We walked past a glimpse of Spicers Peak and startled a carpet python basking on the road before it quickly hid on the bank. We also saw a Grey Goshawk in a tree. When we were at Bare Rock we saw Grey Goshawks patrolling the ridges so they seem to like the general area.

Carpet Python.

Grey Goshawk.

Governors Chair. Caution: unfenced rock platform.
We arrived at the Governors Chair car park and took the short walk to the lookout. There are picnic tables at the car park but the rock platform at Governors Chair is an outstanding place to sit and contemplation the universe. Extreme caution required, especially with children, as this is a natural lookout with no barriers. At first, we didn't notice that we were sharing the lookout with a Lace Monitor basking in the sun.

Governors Chair Lookout.

Lace Monitor.

From the Governors Chair we descended two kilometers to Spicers Gap Campground via Spicers Gap Road. 

Spicers Gap Campground, Main Range National Park, QLD.

Spicers Gap Campground.

One of the things we love about Spicers Gap Campground is that it is very quiet. We were here during the week and once again we were camped here all alone. 

Toilet Block

Facilities are limited in the campground but there is a toilet block with non-flush toilets between the adjoining picnic area. Although there are no tables or wood barbecues in the campground it is only a short walk to the picnic area where there are three separate areas with a table and wood fire place. 

Pioneer Picnic Area

The first night we had a bandicoot darting around our campsite. Every morning and evening pairs of cockatoos flew over the campground. We saw Glossy Black Cockatoos, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos and Sulphur Crested Cockatoos. In the last five years we have had tremendous luck seeing Glossy Black Cockatoos but sadly our sightings of Red-tailed Black Cockatoos have dropped off significantly. 

Details for Spicers Gap Campground, April 2019:
Where: Spicers Gap section of Main Range National Park, QLD. 105 km west of Brisbane, off the Cunningham Highway. Continue past Aratula for 5 km then turn left into Lake Moogerah Road. After about 6 km turn into Spicers Gap Road which is a 2WD unsealed road and continue for 3.3 km to the campground and Picnic Area. 
Access: 3.3 km unsealed road. The national park section of Spicers Gap road is very narrow and not suitable for caravans, buses and large motorhomes. 
Sites: Tent campground. Undefined, grassy sites. Park behind bollards. Maximum 50 people.
Booking & Fees: Book online or by phone. I had Telstra reception. $6.65 per person (adults and children over 5 yrs) per night. Children under 5 years are free. Family Pass $26.20 for 1 to 2 adults with children under the age of 18, with a maximum of 8 people in total.
Facilities: Non-flush toilets. 1 non-potable water tap near toilets. Information. Walks. No bins. No showers. No fire rings. Braziers and above ground cookers are allowed, subject to fire bans.
Prohibited: No fires on the ground. No wood collection. No pets. No generators. No fire arms. No amplified music.
Pioneer Picnic Area: Day use area adjoining the campground. Shares the same toilet block. Has three table and three fire places. BYO wood.
Note: It is a further 2 km up a steep road to the Governors Chair Lookout.

Wildlife List: Carpet Python, Red-necked Wallaby, Bandicoot. Birds: Glossy Black-Cockatoo, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Satin Bowerbird, Grey Goshawk, Australian King Parrot, Rainbow Lorikeet, Crimson Rosella, Eastern Yellow Robin, Wonga Pigeon, Lewin's Honeyeater, Noisy Friarbird, Grey Shrike-thrush, Bell Miner, Noisy Miner, Grey Fantail, Red-backed Fairy-wren, White-throated Treecreeper, Pied Currawong, Laughing Kookaburra. 

Walks, Cunningham's Gap Section of Main Range National Park, QLD.

Mt Cordeaux Lookout, southern side. Cunninghams Highway and Mt Mitchell.

We parked in the Crest Car Park on the Cunningham Highway, Cunninghams Gap to go walking. Several walks leave from this car park.

National Parks QLD Map.

Box Forest Track: 5 km return, Class 3:
We have done this walk a few times before. Sometimes leaving from the Crest Car Park and other times from West Gap Creek Picnic Area further west up the Cunningham's Highway. It is a lovely green rainforest walk but, as it parallels the Cunningham Highway, traffic noise is audible throughout.

This trip we decided to combine the Rainforest Circuit, Mount Cordeaux Track, Bare Rock and Morgans Walk. All up about 13 kilometers, Class 4.

Rainforest Circuit: 1.6 km, Class 3:
This is a great short walk with a formed lookout and flora information signs. We saw several battered looking female Wonder Brown butterflies fluttering about in the dark damp rainforest environment.

Fassifern Valley Lookout

Rainforest Circuit 

Wonder Brown Heteronympha mirifica

Mount Cordeaux Track, 6.8 km, Class 4. Danger, Sheer cliffs:

It is quite a long slog to zig-zag up the side of Mount Cordeaux to get to the lookouts but it is a pleasant rainforest walk none the less and the views from the top are well worth the effort. As we climbed up, we were able to gauge our progress by looking down on the Cunningham's Highway and across to Mt Mitchell.

Cunninghams HWY and Mt Mitchell.

Finally, we saw a side track sign that indicated it was 65 meters to Mt Cordeaux. About half-way up there is a formed lookout with more views out over Mt Mitchell and at the top there is an unprotected rocky platform with great views over Lake Moogerah and the Fassifern Valley. The side-track finishes here and doesn't quite go to the summit. Next to the lookout there was a giant hole in the rock. I have not know if the hole is a man-made or geological formation but it certainly would have been helpful to have an information sign at the lookout.

Formed Lookout at Mount Cordeaux

Mystery hole at Mt Cordeaux Lookout.

Mount Cordeaux, southern side.

View of Fassifern Valley from Mt Cordeaux, northern side.

We retrace our steps to the main path and continue towards Bare Rock. It's not really clear where the Mt Cordeaux Track finishes and the Bare Rock Track takes over but even if you do not intend continuing all the way to Bare Rock I would encourage you to continue a little bit longer because the next section is truly awesome, although a head for heights and caution is required. The path traverses the flanks of Mt Cordeaux via a magnificent path through overhanging giant spear lilies and a sheer cliff drop-off on one side. After proceeding almost bent double under the spear lilies we arrived at the other side of Mt Cordeaux where there are more unformed lookouts with sheer drop-offs and magnificent views. 

Mt Cordeaux northern side.

View from northern side of Mt Cordeaux.

Bare Rock Track: 12.4 Km, Class 4, (includes Mount Cordeaux Walk):
Continuing along the path to Bare Rock we found plenty of fungus along the way and particularly liked the large arrangement on a fallen tree trunk as well as some large, tall, classically shaped ones beside the path.

Fungus on a fallen tree.

Super-sized Fungus.

We also noticed some Passalid Beetles on a fallen tree. These beetles, with various common names such as Bess Beetles and Patent Leather Beetles, live in small colonies and are rotting log specialists. I have only ever seen completely black ones before but this one appears to have black and white spotting on the head area.

Bess/Patent Leather Beetle 

Having previously ascended to Mt Cordeaux, most of the Bare Rock track is fairly flat but I had read, in the national parks brochure, that to get to Bare Rock, rock scrambling was required so I wasn't sure how difficult that would be. It turned out to be just a few meters of ascending rough track and I had no problem at all getting to the natural rock platform that is Bare Rock. 

The "rock scramble" up to Bare Rock.

This is a great location for a picnic, providing you are prepared to lug food and drink six kilometers up mountainsides to get it here. The views are once again extensive and magnificent and well worth the effort. 

Perfect picnic spot at Bare Rock.

View from Bare Rock.

Morgans Walk: extra 600m when added to Bare Rock Walk, Class 4:
After exploring and soaking in the view at Bare Rock, we retraced our steps 680 meters back to the turn-off to Morgans Walk. We found it a pleasant enough diversion of 700 meters return but the views at the end are limited and don't compare to Bare Rock or Mt Cordeaux.

View from Morgans Walk.

On our return to the car park we had to wait some time to leave because the way out was blocked by a vehicle towing a caravan. These unfortunate people drove into the car park assuming they would be able to exit out the other side. Unfortunately, the car park only has the one entry and exit point so they had to turn the vehicle and caravan around in a very tight space. Luckily, the car park wasn't completely full and with much maneuvering and some heaving on the fence they eventually managed to turn around.

Caravan in the Crest Car Park.

After the walk we headed off to the nearest National Park campground, nineteen kilometers away at Spicers Gap, Main Range National Park. This is a tents only campground but Manna Gum Campground and Poplar Flat Campground in the Goomburra section of Main Range National Park, 55 kilometers away, are also good and take all rig types.

Wildlife seen while walking, April 2019: Red-legged Pademelon, Passalid (Bess) Beetle, Wonder Brown Butterfly Heteronympha mirifica. Birds: Grey Goshawk, Australian King Parrot, Albert's Lyrebird, Green Catbird, Satin Bowerbird, Grey Fantail, Rufous Fantail, Lewin's Honeyeater, Scarlet Honeyeater, White-browed Scrubwren, Brown Gerygone, Brown Cuckoo-Dove, Pied Currawong, Bell Miner, Eastern Yellow Robin, Pale Yellow Robin.

Cunningham Highway, Main Range National Park, QLD.

Picnic area on the Cunningham Highway.

We often stop at rest area on the western end of Cunningham's Gap. We haven't been able to find out the name of this rest area so we refer to it as Bellbird Park. (Update: almost a year later I found out that this park is called West Gap Creek Picnic Area). When driving south, the turn into the rest area is immediately after the end of a passing bay and is a sharp narrow entry. We feel it is quite a dangerous turnoff so we only decide to go in if there are no vehicles immediately behind us. I wouldn't recommend the access at any time for a caravan. 

Even the national park map doesn't name the rest area.

We love the rest area because it is such a beautiful green space alive with the ping ping call of bellbirds.

Bell Minor (Bellbird)

Other birds we typically see there are Satin Bowerbirds and Eastern Yellow Robins. This trip the Bowerbirds were looking very scruffy.

Satin Bowerbird

Satin Bowerbird

The Box Forest Walking Track runs between here and the Crest Car Park further to the east along Cunningham Highway. It is a pleasant green rainforest walk; 5 km return. On this trip, we just crossed the pretty creek near the rest area and came back again. Later we noticed that on that short walk a leech managed to hitch a ride.

The Box Forest Walk

Fungi on the Box Forest Walk

The rest area has two areas. There is a toilet block and an undercover picnic shelter in the second area.

Second car park area with toilets and information shelter.

Sheltered picnic area.