Walks in the Spicers Gap Section of Main Range National Park, QLD.

View of Mt Cordeaux and Bare Rock from Mt Mathieson.

Mt Mathieson Trail: 
To Mt Mathieson and return to the Spicers Gap Campground is 3.6 km, Class 4. The full circuit including the Mt Mathieson Trail, Heritage Trail, Governors Chair and Spicers Gap Road is over 8 km. However, the section from Mt Mathieson towards the remains of the timber jinker is an ungraded track for experience hikers only.

Map of the full Mt Mathieson Circuit.

The trail-head for the Mt Mathieson Trail is across the road from Spicers Gap Campground. At the start of the walk we could clearly see gum trees damaged by Bell Miners. This damage can also be seen along the Heritage Trail.

Damaged gum trees caused by Bell Miners.

The walk gradually ascends Mt Mathieson where there are good views over the Cunningham Highway and the Fassifern Valley. We have done this walk before but this time we were particularly taken by the views towards Mt Cordeaux as we had recently walked to Mt Cordeaux and Bare Rock. The marked track stops at this point. We continued on but the track is indistinct in places and runs along a narrow ridge line with sharp drop offs and some scrambling is required.

View of Mt Cordeaux and Bare Rock from Mt Mathieson.

Distant view of the Fassifern Valley and the emergency truck ramp on the Cunningham HWY.

The challenging section of the walk emerges into a shady forest section which in turn leads to an open grassy section. Previously, we encountered wild pigs in the grassy section but all was quite this time round.

Tranquil forest section of the walk.

Open grassland section of the walk.

The trail goes past the remains of an old timber jinker before emerging at a car park on the 4WD section of Spicers Gap Road which connects to the Cunningham Highway at Tregony. 

Remains of an old timber jinker.

It used to be possible to drive from Cunninghams Highway to the Governors Chair but to protect the historic cobblestone section of Spicers Gap Road from damage the middle section is now gated. However, it is a pleasant walk from here to the Governors Chair Lookout.

Heritage Trail: Class 4, 1.6 km one way.
The old road is of historic significance and is signposted with information along the trail.

Protected section of  Spicers Gap Road.

Now that there is no 4WD access to the protected section of Spicers Gap Road we noticed that the stones are becoming overgrown and fungus was growing on the road when we were there this time.

The cobblestone section of Spicers Gap Road.

Spicers Peak.

We walked past a glimpse of Spicers Peak and startled a carpet python basking on the road before it quickly hid on the bank. We also saw a Grey Goshawk in a tree. When we were at Bare Rock we saw Grey Goshawks patrolling the ridges so they seem to like the general area.

Carpet Python.

Grey Goshawk.

Governors Chair. Caution: unfenced rock platform.
We arrived at the Governors Chair car park and took the short walk to the lookout. There are picnic tables at the car park but the rock platform at Governors Chair is an outstanding place to sit and contemplation the universe. Extreme caution required, especially with children, as this is a natural lookout with no barriers. At first, we didn't notice that we were sharing the lookout with a Lace Monitor basking in the sun.

Governors Chair Lookout.

Lace Monitor.

From the Governors Chair we descended two kilometers to Spicers Gap Campground via Spicers Gap Road. 

Spicers Gap Campground, Main Range National Park, QLD.

Spicers Gap Campground.

One of the things we love about Spicers Gap Campground is that it is very quiet. We were here during the week and once again we were camped here all alone. 

Toilet Block

Facilities are limited in the campground but there is a toilet block with non-flush toilets between the adjoining picnic area. Although there are no tables or wood barbecues in the campground it is only a short walk to the picnic area where there are three separate areas with a table and wood fire place. 

Pioneer Picnic Area

The first night we had a bandicoot darting around our campsite. Every morning and evening pairs of cockatoos flew over the campground. We saw Glossy Black Cockatoos, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos and Sulphur Crested Cockatoos. In the last five years we have had tremendous luck seeing Glossy Black Cockatoos but sadly our sightings of Red-tailed Black Cockatoos have dropped off significantly. 

Details for Spicers Gap Campground, April 2019:
Where: Spicers Gap section of Main Range National Park, QLD. 105 km west of Brisbane, off the Cunningham Highway. Continue past Aratula for 5 km then turn left into Lake Moogerah Road. After about 6 km turn into Spicers Gap Road which is a 2WD unsealed road and continue for 3.3 km to the campground and Picnic Area. 
Access: 3.3 km unsealed road. The national park section of Spicers Gap road is very narrow and not suitable for caravans, buses and large motorhomes. 
Sites: Tent campground. Undefined, grassy sites. Park behind bollards. Maximum 50 people.
Booking & Fees: Book online or by phone. I had Telstra reception. $6.65 per person (adults and children over 5 yrs) per night. Children under 5 years are free. Family Pass $26.20 for 1 to 2 adults with children under the age of 18, with a maximum of 8 people in total.
Facilities: Non-flush toilets. 1 non-potable water tap near toilets. Information. Walks. No bins. No showers. No fire rings. Braziers and above ground cookers are allowed, subject to fire bans.
Prohibited: No fires on the ground. No wood collection. No pets. No generators. No fire arms. No amplified music.
Pioneer Picnic Area: Day use area adjoining the campground. Shares the same toilet block. Has three table and three fire places. BYO wood.
Note: It is a further 2 km up a steep road to the Governors Chair Lookout.

Wildlife List: Carpet Python, Red-necked Wallaby, Bandicoot. Birds: Glossy Black-Cockatoo, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Satin Bowerbird, Grey Goshawk, Australian King Parrot, Rainbow Lorikeet, Crimson Rosella, Eastern Yellow Robin, Wonga Pigeon, Lewin's Honeyeater, Noisy Friarbird, Grey Shrike-thrush, Bell Miner, Noisy Miner, Grey Fantail, Red-backed Fairy-wren, White-throated Treecreeper, Pied Currawong, Laughing Kookaburra. 

Spicers Gap Camping Area, Main Range National Park, QLD.

Spicers Gap Camping Area

We packed the tent in the ute and enjoyed a tranquil stay at Spicers Gap Campground. During the early evening the sounds of heavy trucks making their way up and down Cunninghams Gap drift up the range, yet this the campground has a remote feel and during the week is quite often empty. Another thing that seems incongruous is that, despite being in a national park, the campground is opposite a small mango farm. No doubt there is an interesting back story as to how this came about.

Mango farm (L), Spicers Gap Camping Area (R).

Day Use Area

The Day Use Area adjoins the campground and shares the only amenities block. There are three picnic tables with fireplaces which can also be used by day trippers or campers.

Picnic facilities.

Pioneer Graves Track: 260 m, Class 2.

There is an historical graveyard only a short walk from the Day Use Area. There are no headstones, only a cairn in memory of the dead.

Spicers Gap memorial cairn.

Mount Mathieson Trail, 8.1 km.

View on the way up.

In the early morning, we crossed Spicers Gap Road to the start of the trail head. The first section is dominated by the constant calls of Bell Miners. Then we entered lush, cool rainforest. We saw Green Catbirds calling out in the open. The track climbs steadily until it reaches an area with excellent views over the Cunningham Highway. We had a good vantage point right above the emergency escape ramp for vehicles that lose their breaks. Thankfully, there were no emergencies while we watched on.

Views of the Cunningham Highway from Mount Mathieson.

Magnificent views on the Mount Mathieson Trail

We continued on for a short distance and came to a sign stating that the Mount Mathieson Trail is “ungraded”. Having read on the official national parks internet site that the Mount Mathieson Trail is a Class 4 trail we weren’t too worried and continued on. Before long the track deteriorated and at one point we spent some time carefully deciding just where the track continued forward. We didn’t want to get lost and we certainly didn’t want to accidentally fall off a cliff and end up using the helipad on Cunninghams Gap! About this time, we checked that, yes, we did have our Personal Locator Beacon. The next challenge was a mercifully short but very steep section. We began to regret carrying so much camera gear and we started to hope that the trail wasn’t going to get any worse because we didn’t fancy trying to return back down the way we had just come! 

Some of the steeper section of the "trail".

We proceeded along a ridge line with more magnificent views and before long the trail became an easy descent through rainforest. 

We crossed open balds where we saw Swamp Wallabies bounding away from us and open grasslands with large tracts of non-native Hairy Balls milkweed. 

Milkweed Gomphocarpus physcocarpus is an important plant for Monarch Danaus plexippus caterpillars.

1.7 km after Mount Matheison and 1.1 km before the Mount Mathieson car park, is the remains of an old timber jinker.

Front half of an old timber jinker.

About 100 m before we reached the Mount Mathieson car park we startled two wild pigs. One, a large sow, stopped and turned back towards us and it looked like she was considering charging back at us. This had me worried that perhaps we had inadvertently placed ourselves between a mother and her piglets. After a tense moment, while we held our breath and looked around for the nearest climbable tree, she turned around and hurtled away from us.

The Mount Mathieson car park is at the top end of the 4WD road that starts at Cunninghams Gap. Between this car park and the car park at Governors Chair is a pleasant, 1.6 km, Heritage Trail, which forms part of the Mount Mathieson Trail. The trail has informative signs along it explaining the history of the area.

Entering the Heritage Trail from the Mount Mathieson car park.

From the Governors Chair car park we walked 150 m to the Governors Chair Lookout. We sat on the “chair” and enjoyed a snack with magnificent views over Moogerah Peaks National Park, despite it being an overcast day. Caution: there is a sheer drop at the lookout and no fences. 

Governors Chair Lookout.

We walked the final 2 km of the trail by descending to the campground along Spicers Gap Road. We did a quick detour of 120 m (return) to Moss’s Well on the way. The well had seen better days but a Grey Fantail seemed to be guarding over it.

Moss's Well.

We didn’t see a single person on the walk. The only people we saw all day were a couple that drove up to Governors Chair Lookout Car Park while we were there.

If you are not an experienced hiker, I would recommend doing the Mount Mathieson Trail in two sections. One section, which requires some fitness, would be to start walking the trail opposite the Day Use Area and climb until you reach an area with interesting views and return the way you came. The second section would be to drive to the parking area at Governors Chair and do the Heritage Trail. At the end of the Heritage Trail either return to the Governors Chair parking area or walk along the Mount Mathieson Trail for any distance that feels comfortable before returning the way you came.

The following day we packed up and did a short section of the Mathieson Trail before leaving. It wasn’t until we downloaded our photos that we discovered that during the whole camping trip, including our walk of the Mount Mathieson Trail, the lens stabilization switch on our zoom camera lens had accidentally been switched off. Unfortunately, all of our bird photos were unusable as they were decidedly on the blurry side.

Details for Spicers Gap Camping Area, Main Range National Park:

Spicers Gap Road

Access: Spicers Gap Campground is about 105 km west of Brisbane, off the Cunningham Highway. Continue past Aratula for 5 km then turn left into Lake Moogerah Road. After about 6 km turn into Spicers Gap Road which is a 2WD unsealed road and continue for 3.3 km to the campground and Day Use Area. The national park section of Spicers Gap road is very narrow and not suitable for caravans, buses and large motorhomes. It is a further 2 km to Governors Chair carpark. The road to Governors Chair car park is listed as 2WD, however, it is quite steep. The road stops at the car park and it is not possible to drive through the range to the high-clearance, dry weather only, 4WD road on the other side of Spicers Gap which stops at the Mount Mathieson car park. It is a pleasant 1.6 km walk along the Heritage Trail between the two car parks.

Type of Camping: tent camping on open grassy areas separated from your vehicle by bollards.

Number of Sites: undefined sites, maximum of 50 people.

Facilities: There is one male and one female composting toilet shared between the campground and the Day Use Area. There is one tap of non-potable water near the amenities block. There are no fire rings, however, elevated BBQ’s and braziers are allowed. There are three picnic tables with wood BBQ’s positioned between the camping and picnic areas. We had good Telstra mobile phone reception. Walks. No bins. No showers.

Prohibitions: No generators, no fires on the ground, no wood collection from the park or the side of the road, no amplified music, no domestic pets and no firearms.

Fees: $5.95 per person, children under 5 years are free. There is a Family Rate of $23.80 for 1 to 2 adults with children under the age of 18, with a maximum of 8 people in total. 

Bookings: Phone 13 74 68 or online at http://parks.nprsr.qld.gov.au/permits. Limited phone reception. We had Telstra mobile phone reception. 

Bird List for this trip:

Wompoo Fruit Dove, Wonga Pigeon, Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoo, Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Australian King Parrot, Crimson Rosella, Laughing Kookaburra, White-throated Treecreeper, Variegated Fairy-wren, Yellow-throated Scrubwren, Bell Miner, Noisy Miner, Lewin's Honeyeater, Yellow-faced Honeyeater, Eastern Whipbird, Eastern Yellow Robin, Little Shrike-thrush, Grey Shrike-thrush, Golden Whistler, Rufous Whistler, Grey Fantail, Willie Wagtail, Green Catbird, Satin Bowerbird, Grey Butcherbird, Pied Currawong, Torresian Crow, Red-browed Finch.